2012 dodge charger door panel

Two plaintiffs have filed a class action lawsuit alleging a defect in Chrysler 300 and Dodge Charger door panels.

Lead plaintiff Dorothea Johnson, a California resident who owns a used 2016 Chrysler 300C, and plaintiff Jason Player of Texas who drives a new 2016 Dodge Charger, allege the vehicles’ maker sold the automobiles knowing they were defective.

According to the class action lawsuit, FCA US has refused to fix the problem, forcing vehicle owners to either suffer with the defect or spend thousands on repairs.

In addition, the plaintiffs say, the defect “raises serious safety concerns” about whether the vehicles’ side air bags, anti-theft systems, and other components are able to function properly.

The Chrysler 300 is a four-door luxury vehicle, while the Dodge Charger is a “muscle car,” according to the class action lawsuit. The vehicles at issue in this complaint include all Chrysler 300s and Dodge Chargers and Daytonas — “a modified version of the Charger” — of model years 2014 through 2021. If sales of vehicles with the alleged defect continue beyond the 2021 model year, those would be included, as well.

The plaintiffs allege the interior Chrysler 300 and Dodge Charger door panels can “peel away” from the vehicle’s frame. While the problem primarily lies with the front driver and passenger doors, the back doors also are affected in some cases.

“Essentially the interior door panels begin to separate and rise up next to the window, generally expanding to cross nearly the entire bottom of the window,” the class action lawsuit says. 

In addition, the alleged defect causes smaller panels to “pull away from the center console,” and the dashboard to pull away from the windshield.

The plaintiffs maintain FCA US knew about the defect in the Chrysler 300 and Dodge Charger door panels long before the plaintiffs purchased their vehicles.

Johnson and Player believe the defendant knew about the defect by at least 2015 because of pre-release evaluation, repair data, early customer complaints made to the company, and other sources. 

Even so, FCA US took no action to correct the defect in the Chrysler 300 and Dodge Charger door panels, “actively” concealing it from consumers, the class action lawsuit says. The company also continued to misrepresent the vehicles’ trim quality in its marketing.

The “degradation occurs over time,” the class action lawsuit says, meaning “it is a hidden defect of which customers are not aware at the time of purchase.”

The plaintiffs argue that because the cost of the vehicles is substantial — more than $40,000 — “the Defect is the furthest thing customers would or should expect.”

While the company does offer a warranty, the defect doesn’t always show up during the warranty period, the plaintiffs say.

Even if the defect does show itself during the warranty period, and the interior panels are replaced, those replacement panels allegedly “have the same Defect.”

Furthermore, the replacement panels typically begin to show the defect once the vehicle is out of warranty, the plaintiffs say. And at that point, FCA US’ policy is to not pay repair or replacement costs if the vehicle is outside its warranty.

“Thus, Defendant has failed to provide a permanent, in-warranty fix for the Defect,” the class action lawsuit says. “This partial or temporary fix does not meet Defendant’s obligation pursuant to the warranty.”

Despite these repairs and a large number of customer complaints, FCA US has decided not to recall the vehicles or issue a service bulletin regarding the defect, the plaintiffs claim.

“This decision has been made solely to save money.”

According to the class action lawsuit, a recall would be appropriate because the Chrysler 300 and Dodge Charger door panels defect could pose safety issues: The doors’ “inner cavity” can be exposed, potentially altering the performance of the vehicles’ side airbags as well as exposing the locking mechanism and allowing hot or cold air into the vehicles.

“In its worst manifestations, the Defect presents multiple safety violations in several areas of the Subject Vehicles,” the complaint says. “In nearly all cases, the Defect presents serious safety concerns.”

The plaintiffs accuse FCA US of breaches of warranty, implied warranty and the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act; fraud by concealment; unjust enrichment; and other Texas and California code violations.

With their class action lawsuit, Johnson and Player seek injunctive relief, compensatory damages, attorneys’ fees and other relief.

They also demand a jury trial.

Do you drive a Dodge or Chrysler? Have you noticed this door panel defect? Let us know in the comments.

The plaintiffs are represented by Tyler W. Hudson, Eric D. Barton and Austin P. Brane of Wagstaff & Cartmell LLP; and E. Adam Webb and Matthew C. Klase of Webb, Klase & Lemond LLC.

The Dodge Charger Door Panels Class Action Lawsuit is Dorothea Johnson, et al. v. FCA US LLC, Case No. 2:20-cv-08314, in the U.S. District Court for the Central District of California, Western Division.

2014 Charger Door Panel

Pry Out Door Handle Trim Piece

Plastic Screw Cover Removed

Owners of other Chrysler, Dodge and RAM vehicles such as the Town & Country, 300, 200, Avenger, Challenger, Journey, Dart, Durango, Grand Caravan, Ram C/V Tradesman and 1500 may also find these DIY instructions to be helpful.

The tools needed to remove the door panel include a small flathead screwdriver, a Phillips head screwdriver, a pair of needle nose pliers and an automotive panel removal tool or a large flathead screwdriver.

To take out the OEM door speaker, you'll need a Torx T25 star bit screwdriver.

Pry Out Arm Rest Well Cover

Screw Cover Removed

Inner Upper Corner

Then gently pry out the plastic trim piece behind the chrome silver door opener handle with the small flathead screwdriver.

Move to the arm rest well and pry out the plastic trim panel with the small flathead screwdriver.

Set the two plastic trim panels aside in a safe place.

Push In Center of Fastener

Pry Out Plastic Fastener

Fastener Removed

Gently push in the small round center piece of the fastener with the flathead screwdriver and then pry out the outer edge to remove the fastener.

Lower Outer Corner

Remove Phillips Screw

Screw & Rubber Bumper

Remove Phillips Head Screw

Remove Phillips Arm Rest Screw

Screw, Fastener & Panels

Remove the Phillips head screw at the bottom of the door pull well in the arm rest by turning it counterclockwise.

At this point, you should have removed 2 plastic trim panels, 2 bare screws, 1 screw with a rubber bumper attached, and a black plastic fastener.

Pry Out Bottom Edge

Pop Rivet Fasteners Removed

Lift Door Panel Off Frame

Firmly pull out the bottom edge of the door panel to disengage the plastic pop rivet fasteners.

Continue pulling out the pop rivet friction fasteners all along the bottom edge and both sides of the door panel.

Check that all of the pop rivets have been released and then lift the door panel off the top edge of the metal door frame.

Tilt Away Top of Panel

Press Release Tab

Disconnect Power Plug

Press the release tab on the white plastic power plug and slide it out of its socket.

Disconnect Green Power Plug

Squeeze Together Two Prongs

Pull Out Black Plastic Collar

To disconnect the door opener handle cable, squeeze together the two prongs on the black plastic collar with a pair of needle pliers.

Pull the black plastic collar out of the bracket and swing the door opener cable away from yourself.

Lift Out Metal Cylinder

Disconnect Courtesy Step Light

Plastic Door Panel Removed

Press the release tab for the white plastic step/courtesy light near the bottom of the door panel and slide it out of its socket.

Set the plastic door panel aside in a safe place.

Metal Door Frame

OEM Door Speaker

Remove Torx T25 Screws

Remove the four screws holding the door speaker in place by turning them counterclockwise with a Torx T25 star bit screwdriver.

4 Torx T-25 Screws

Pull Off OEM Speaker

Disconnect Speaker Plug

The OEM door speakers can be replaced with aftermarket speakers in the following sizes: 6"x9", 7", 6 1/2" (6.5"), 6 3/4" (6.75") and 5 1/4" (5.25").

I'd recommend purchasing new speakers from Crutchfield since they usually include any necessary wiring harnesses, electrical connector adapters and mounting brackets.

If you'd like to reduce road noise and make the speakers sound better, I'd recommend using Dynamat Sound Deadener on the metal door frame to stop any unwanted vibrations or rattles.

Hold Panel Near Frame

Push In Step Light Plug

Push In Switch Panel Plug

To re-install the door panel, hold it near the frame and tilt the top towards yourself while supporting the bottom edge with your legs.

Push in the small white plastic power plug for the door step / courtesy light near the bottom of the panel.

Then re-insert the green plastic electrical connector in to the underside of the switch panel.

Re-Insert Metal Cylinder

Push In Plastic Collar

Pop In Two Plastic Prongs

Then pull the black plastic collar away from the bracket, re-insert the metal cable in to the bracket.

Slide the black plastic collar in to the bracket until the two plastic prongs snap securely in to place.

Push In White Plastic Plug

Re-Insert Door Lock Stalk

Lower Panel On To Frame

Re-insert the chrome colored door lock stalk in to the hole at the upper outer corner of the door panel.

Lower the door panel on to the lip at the top of the metal door frame.

Line Up Pop Rivets

Black Plastic Spike

Firmly Tap In Fasteners

Firmly tap in the pop rivet fasteners all along the bottom edge and both sides of the door panel.

Replace Rubber Bumper Screw

Replace Arm Rest Screw

Replace the Phillips head screw at the bottom of the arm rest well by turning it clockwise.

Replace Door Handle Screw

Inner Edge Plastic Fastener

Pop In Fastener

Push in the black plastic fastener near the middle of the inner edge of the door panel.

Re-Insert Armrest Trim Panel

Pop In Trim Panel

Door Panel Replaced

Pop in the plastic trim piece behind the door opener handle.

Sit inside the vehicle, close the door and verify that the door opener handle, door lock switch, door lock stalk and the power window switch all still work properly.

For more, check out my other 2011-2014 Dodge Charger DIY Repair & Maintenance Guides.
 

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