Husqvarna lawn mower blade bolt

Husqvarna lawn mower blade bolt DEFAULT

I know the feeling, FRUSTRATION!!! but we’ll get it figured out. The blade bolt can be stuck for a few different reasons. Usually, it’s a combination of rust and over-tightening.

The easiest way to remove a stuck blade bolt is with an impact tool; they make the whole job look easy.
Other options include:

  • Use Tool Leverage
  • Vice-grips
  • Hammer & Chisel
  • Heat
  • Welder

You may not have an impact, so I’ll show you a few different options. Some of these options may not suit you; it’ll depend on what tools you have available. Best to don a pair of work gloves. Stuck bolts usually mean slipping tools.

Removing A Rounded Bolt

Over-tightening is common. Mower blades are designed to be tightened to a specific torque, which isn’t as tight as you might expect. That’s because they’re designed to slip if they hit a solid object. The slipping protects the engine from serious damage associated with a curbstone strike.

Also common is turning the bolt the wrong way; hey, it could happen to a bishop. All single-blade walk-behind mowers will have what’s known as a right-hand thread. That means, to loosen the bolt, you turn it to the left. (counter-clockwise) 

I cover all you need to know pretty well in this post, but if you need more help, check out the following videos:

“How to use a torque wrench video”

“Replacing mower blade video”

“Sharpening a mower blade video”

Blade Bolt Torque

Mower blade bolts should be torqued to spec. These bolts are usually over-tightened, and when you add corrosion, removing them can be a headache.

Only some large twin blades walk-behind mowers and some lawn tractor mowers are likely to have one only left-hand threaded blade bolt; the other bolt will be a regular right-hand thread.

How do you know which is which?

Simple, if the blade is designed to cut turning right (viewed from above), then it will be a right-hand thread; this is the most common type. To loosen a right-hand thread, you turn it to the left.

The same idea applies to twin-blade tractor mowers. However, a left-hand thread is common on some lawn tractor mowers.

So, if the blade cuts grass turning to the right, as before, it’s likely a regular right-hand thread (left to loosen). But it’s not uncommon for a tractor mower to have one of the blades turn to the left when cutting, and that usually means it’s a left-hand thread (check your owner manual) to loosen a left-hand thread, turn it to the right.

L/H – R/HThread

A r/h thread loosens to the left. This is the most common type of thread. (counterclockwise)

A l/h threaded bolt loosens to the right. (clockwise)

Typical torque specs for blade bolts are anywhere from 35 ft. lbs. to 90 ft. lbs., you’ll need to check the spec of your mower, it’s important to get it right.

Most of the time blade bolts just get buttoned uptight and aren’t torqued to spec, and that’s OK, but you run the risk of bending the crankshaft if you hit a solid object. I advise using a torque wrench, it’s a lot cheaper than a new mower engine.

Torque wrenches are easy to use, they come in inch-pounds for smaller torque specs, but for mowers, you’ll need foot-pounds. A torque wrench from 30 to 100 foot-pounds is about right.

If you don’t have or can’t borrow one, check out this post on my 1/2 drive Teng Torque, it won’t break the bank, it covers 30 to 150 ft. lbs., it’s simple to use, calibrated from the factory, and has a flexible working range.

I get my torque wrenches calibrated every year but it gets a lot of use. If you set your torque wrench to zero after you use it and don’t throw it around, it should stay calibrated for years.

Damage – The bolt on the right has a rounded head, this kind of damage happens when a tool slips on a bolt head, or corrosion deforms it. Getting the bolt out presents a challenge.

A rounded bolt head is a real pain in jacksie. It usually happens when the bolt is old and corrosion has deformed it. Worn or damaged tools will give you the same result.

It can also happen if the wrong size tool is used. An American mower may use imperial size nuts and bolts, I know the more modern kit is metric and some mowers are a mix of both. If your mower is European or Asian it will be metric sizes.

The trouble is you can get an imperial wrench to almost fit a metric bolt, but it’s loose and will slip, which rounds the bolt head. Typical bolt sizes for mower blade bolts are Imperial 1/2″, 5/8″, 3/4″ and Metric sizes 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16mm, and 17mm.

Imperial or Metric, be sure your tools are a good fit.

Tools You’ll Need

Impact power tools are designed for this exact job. They cause a hammering action which helps reduce the bolt thread friction and breaks any corrosion loose. So if you have an air or battery impact tool, you going to feel like a superhero when that bolt just walks out.

Basic tools needed assuming you don’t have an impact tool: wire brush, wd40, ratchet & sockets, selection of wrenches.

Other tools you’ll need if things don’t go exactly to plan: breaker bar, hammer & chisel, butane torch, and if everything goes to crap, a Mig welder. In my workshop, I use an air impact tool, if you haven’t got one or can’t borrow I have other solutions for you.

But the tool I am least likely to be without is an impact tool, it just makes life really easy and saves so much time. The coolest thing about the latest generation impact tools is their mobility, cordless now packs the power of an air tool. Great for around the home and for flat wheel emergency, use it to run the jack-up and take the nuts off.

Although I still use air in the workshop, I bought a 20v Ingersoll Rand cordless for mobile repairs, I know they ain’t cheap but you won’t ever need to buy another.

If you do buy an impact tool, you’ll need to buy impact sockets too. Sure you can use regular sockets, but you run the risk of them shattering. Anyway, you’ll find all these tools on the “Small engine repair tools page”.

Tool Up – Most stuck bolts won’t need all these tools, but some do.

Removing The Bolt

Removing a stuck bolt involves trying different solutions until you ring the bell. In the first attempts, we’ll try the simple stuff and if that doesn’t move it, I have lots more ideas.

Before we start any work on our mower we need to make it safe. Pull the plug wire off and set it away from the plug. Turn your gas off if you have a gas tap, if you don’t know where your gas tap is check out “Gas tap location”.

WD40 is my favorite tool, it solves lots of problems, I also like a product called nut buster, it’s formulated for dissolving rust. Try spraying the bolt liberally above and below the blade, and allow it time to work into the threads.

Disable Mower – For safety, let’s remove the plug wire and turn off the gas.

Turn the mower over with the carburetor side facing up, stops gas leaking on the floor. (see tilting mower over)

Wire Brush to remove any rust. Wd40 Spray front and rear of the bolt and give it some time to soak in.

Impact Tool – By far the preferred way to remove a bolt. An Impact gun hammers the bolt as well as twists it, this loosens the corrosion between the threads.

An impact tool will remove the bolt in seconds and you won’t need to lock the blade. But if the bolt head is rounded, the impact tool is of no use. You’ll need a different solution.

Check out the Amazon link, some of these impact wrench prices surprised me.

Amazon Impact Wrench

Lock Blade – If you are not using an impact tool we’ll need to use a piece of timber to lock the blade against the body. Longer timber is better than shorter. Cut a length to suit.

Good Fit – Select a socket (6 points preferably) and check the fit. Turn the ratchet left to loosen. Using a breaker bar, or if you don’t have to improvise with your ratchet and some pipe. 

Pushing down on the pipe will give you the extra power you need to break it loose. Just be sure the socket is a good fit, and it stays on the bolt head when you’re applying force.

Wrench Leverage – Turn the Wrench left to loosen. If you don’t have a ratchet and breaker bar, try 2 interlocked wrench’s for extra leverage, or use a hammer to shock the bolt.

If it still won’t budge, try tightening it slightly, this often helps, odd I know!

Striking – Try striking two hammers sharply (wear eye protection) while one is placed against the bolt head, this can help break loose any corrosion on the threads. If the head of the bolt is rounded, move on to the next solution.

Rounded Bolt – If your bolt head is rounded, try a vice grip. Get it as tight as you can, and try hitting it to the left sharply with a hammer.

Not all vice grips are the same, for this application you’ll need a flat jawed set. Check out this post on Vice-grips tools.

Chisel – This method is pretty effective, but you’ll need a new bolt, sharp metal working chisel, and a heavy hammer. With the chisel and hammer, take a sideways and downward aim at the bolt, we’re attempting to loosen it by turning it left. This will require good aim, so now’s a good time for those gloves.

Heat – Ordinarily I’ll tell you to get some heat on the bolt, the reason I haven’t introduced it earlier is that it comes with the risk of damaging the crankshaft nylon seal, which would cause the engine to leak oil.

The risk of this is fairly small, once you direct the flame and only use a small amount. We’re not going to redden the bolt, just going to heat it up.

Maybe 2 minutes with a butane torch directed at the bolt. You can now try heat with any combination of the above methods. Heat is very successful at helping move stuck bolts.

Welding – This method will obviously require a welder, when I get a really stubborn bolt with a rounded head, I take a new bolt and weld it to it. This gives me a not-so-pretty but clean bolt head to work with.

This solution has never failed me yet. You’ll need to replace the bolt. Blade bolts have a fine thread, they are a specialized bolt, getting one in the hardware store isn’t advisable.

Related Questions

The spindle turns when removing the blades? The easiest way to prevent the blade from turning while loosening the blade bolt is to use a large block of wood to lock the blade against the mowing deck.

Lawnmowerblade bolt direction? Turn the mower on its side, carburetor side up, turn the blade bolt to the left (anticlockwise) to loosen.

Mower Troubleshooting


What Direction Do I Turn the Nut to Change a Mower Blade?

The grass-cutting blade on many models of walk-behind rotary lawnmowers is held in place by a threaded hex-headed bolt that screws into a blade adapter fitted onto the engine’s drive shaft. When the blade needs sharpening or replacement, you must turn out the blade retaining bolt to get the old blade off the mower. For your safety, remove the spark plug wire from the plug before doing any work on your mower.

Turn to Left

The blades on many brands of walk-behind mowers rotate to the right, the clockwise direction, when you are mowing. To remove the blade, you must turn the blade's retaining bolt to the left, or counterclockwise. Before undoing the blade, tip the mower on its side with the engine air cleaner facing up and block the blade with a piece of wood so it can’t turn.

Check the Fit

As you undo the blade bolt, pay attention to how the blade fits into the blade adapter on the engine shaft, which side of the blade faces up toward the mower deck, and the order in which the blade tensioning washers are installed on the blade retaining bolt. Be sure to fit the replacement blade into the blade adapter with the correct side facing up and replace the washers in the original order. Tighten the blade retaining bolt by turning it to the right, or clockwise, to a torque of 30 foot-pounds or the torque value specified in your mower manual.


Writer Bio

Herb Kirchhoff has more than three decades of hands-on experience as an avid garden hobbyist and home handyman. Since retiring from the news business in 2008, Kirchhoff takes care of a 12-acre rural Michigan lakefront property and applies his experience to his vegetable and flower gardens and home repair and renovation projects.

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Part Number: BLH7733
Description: Non-Genuine Craftsman, Dixon, Husqvarna, Jonsered®, McCulloch Selected 26″, 30″,
38″, 42″, 46″, 48″, 52″, 54″ And 61″ Cut Ride-On And ZTR Blade Mounting Bolt And
Replaces OEM: Craftsman 193003
Dixon 532 17 43-65, 532 19 30-03, 539 10 75-22
Husqvarna 532 17 43-65, 532 19 30-03, 539 10 75-22
Jonsered® 532 17 43-65, 532 19 30-03, 539 10 75-22
McCulloch 532 17 43-65, 532 19 30-03, 539 10 75-22
Length: (in): 1 1/4″
Length: (mm): 31.75 mm
Thickness: (inches) 7/16
Thread Size: 7/16″-20 UNF
Fits: 42” (1067 mm) cut Craftsman Yard Series YT3000 (model 25431, CR25431), YT4000
(CR98636, 98636) and YT4500 (model 25574) ride-on lawn mower models (2 required for
42” cut).
Fits: Selected Husqvarna stamped deck and fabricated deck ride on lawnmower models including –
Fits: 46” (1168 mm) cut Craftsman Yard Series YT4000 (model 99036, CR99036) ride-on
lawn mower models (2 required for 46” cut).
Fits: 30” (770 mm) cut Dixon D15KH30 (model 96041022700 years 2011 to 2012) ride-on
lawn mower models (1 required for 30” cut).
Fits: 38” (1067 mm) cut Dixon D17K38 (model 96041022800 years 2011 to 2012), D17KH38
(model 96041022900 years 2011 to 2012) ride-on lawn mower models (2 required for
38” cut).
Fits: 42” (1067 mm) cut Dixon D19KH42 (model 96041023000 years 2011 to 2012), 22K42H
[D22KH42] (model 96041018300 years 2010 to 2012) ride-on lawn mower models (2
required for 42” cut).
Fits: Husqvarna selected stamped deck and fabricated deck ride on lawnmower models
including –
Fits: 30” (770 mm) cut Husqvarna CTH19530 (models 96051005500 year 2012 and 96051011901
year 2014), LTH126 (model 96041013500 year 2009), LTH19530 (models 96041016900 and
96041016901 year 2010) ride-on lawn mower models and RZ3019 (model 966582101 year
2010) zero turn radius (ZTR) ride-on models (1 required for 30” cut).
Fits: 38” (965 mm) cut Husqvarna *CTH2138R (models 96051005600 and 96051005601 year
2012, 96051012000 year 2013 and 96051012001 year 2014), LT1597 (models 96011022000,
96041005000, 96041005001, 96041005002, 96041005003, 96041005004, 96041005005 and
96041005006 years 2006 to 2009), LT19538 (models 96041017000, 96041017001,
96041017002, 96041017003 and 96041027500 years 2012 to 2012), LTH1797 (models
96011022100, 96041005100, 96041005101, 96041005102, 96041005103 and 96041005104
years 2006 to 2009), LTH2038 (models 96041017100, 96041017101 and 96041017102 years
2010 to 2012), LTH2038R (model 96041028302 years 2014 to 2015), YP18KH38 Yard Pro
(model 96041031200 year 2012) ride-on lawn mower models. (*refer to product note, 2
required for 38” cut).
Fits: 42” (1067 mm) cut Husqvarna *CTH2642TR (model 96051012101 year 2014) and
*CTH2642TRE (model 96051005700 years 2012 to 2013), LTH1742T (model 96041006700
year 2008), LTH1842 (models 96041005200, 96041005201 and 96041005202 years 2007 to
2008), LTH1842T (model 96041005300 year 2007), LTH2142D (model 96041017200 year
2010), LTH2142DR (models 96041023600 and 96041023603 years 2011, 2014 to 2015),
TS342 clear cut fabricated deck (model 96041038600 year 2015), YP21KH42 Yard Pro
(model 96041031300 year 2012), YTH2042T (model 96041005400 years 2007 to 2008),
YTH2042TD (model 96041005402 year 2009), YTH2042XP (models 96041000300 and
96041000301 year 2006), #YTH2242TDF (model 96041017300 year 2010), #YTH2242TDRF
(models 96041023701, 96041023702, 96041023703 and 96041023704 years 2011 to 2015)
ride-on lawn mower models and RZ4219 (model 966582201 years 2011 to 2012) and Z242F
(model 967 602801-01 year 2015) zero turn radius (ZTR) ride-on models (* # = refer
to product notes. For most applications 2 qty are required for 42” cut except for
where models are noted by symbols, then refer to product notes).
Fits: 46” (1168 mm) cut Husqvarna YTH2546T (model 96041005500 years 2007 to 2008),
YTH2546TD (model 96041005503 year 2009), YTH2246TDR (model 96041027203 year 2014 to
2015) ride-on lawn mower models (2 qty required for 46” cut).
Fits: 48” (1220 mm) cut Husqvarna GTH2548XP (models HAU25H48A and HAU25H48B years 2003
to 2004), TS348 (models 96041038700 year 2015), YTH2148XP (models HAU21H48B and
HAU21H48C year 2005), YTH2548XP (models 96041000400 and 96041000401 year 2006),
YTH2648TDF (model 96041017400 year 2010), YTH2648TDRF (models 96041026401,
96041026402 and 96041026403 years 2011 to 2015) ride-on lawn mower models and EZ24T
(model 966659601 years 2011 to 2012), Z248F (model 967 336702-01 year 2015)
fabricated deck zero turn radius (ZTR) ride-on models and FD48E (deck only model
966659801) EZ deck for ZTR’s (3 required for 48” cut).
Fits: 52” (1320 mm) cut Husqvarna GTH2752TF (model 96041017500 year 2010), GTH3052TDF
(models 96041028500, 96041028501, 96041028502 and 96041028503 years 2012 to 2015),
GTH3052TF (model 96041026501 years 2011 to 2012), TS352 fabricated deck (model
96041038800 year 2015) ride-on lawn mower models (3 required for 52” cut).
Fits: 54” (1370 mm) cut Husqvarna GTH2554XP (models HAU25H54A, HAU25H54B and HAU25H54C
years 2004 to 2005), YTH2754T (models 96041006200, 96041006201 and 96041006202
years 2007 to 2009), YTH2754XP (model 96041000500 year 2006) ride-on lawn mower
models and RZ5424T (model 967003701 year 2013) zero turn radius (ZTR) ride-on model
(3 required for 54” cut).
Fits: 42” (1067 mm) cut Jonsered® YT42 (model 96043019600 year 2014) ride-on lawn
mower models and Z42F (model 967327701-00 year 2015) fabricated deck zero turn
radius (ZTR) ride-on models (2 required for 42” cut).
Fits: 46” (1168 mm) cut Jonsered® YT46 (model 96043019700 year 2014) ride-on lawn
mower models and Z46R (model 967327801-00 year 2015) stamped deck zero turn radius
(ZTR) ride-on models (2 required for 46” cut).
Fits: 48” (1220 mm) cut Jonsered® YT48 (model 96043019800 year 2014) ride-on lawn
mower models and Z48F (model 967327901-00 year 2015) fabricated deck zero turn
radius (ZTR) ride-on models (3 required for 48” cut).
Fits: 52” (1320 mm) cut Jonsered® GT52F (model 96043020000 year 2014), Z52XF (model
967328101-00 year 2014) and Z52XFR (model 967328102-00 year 2015) fabricated deck
zero turn radius (ZTR) ride-on models (3 required for 52” cut).
Fits: 61” (1550 mm) cut Jonsered® Z61XF (model 967328201-00 year 2014) and Z612XFR
(model 967328202-00 year 2015) fabricated deck zero turn radius (ZTR) ride-on
models (3 required for 61” cut).
Fits: 26” (660 mm) cut McCulloch MowCart 66 (model 96021000901 year 2010) rear engine
ride-on lawn mower model (1 required for 26” cut).
Fits: 46” (1168 mm) cut McCulloch ZM4619 (model 966564101 year 2010) zero turn radius
(ZTR) ride-on models (2 required for 46” cut).
Features: Bolt: 7/16″ – 20 UNF x 1 1/4″ long
Heat treated, dished washer
Standard Pack Quantity: 1
Please Note: Product Note: For *CTH2138R, *CTH2642TR and *CTH2642TRE models 1 qty only fits on
the left-hand side spindle (the other side of this machine uses a different bolt
with a left-hand thread). #YTH2242TDF and #YTH2242TDRF models 3 qty required for
42” cut.
Brand: Husqvarna – Non Genuine
Product Line: Blade mounting bolt and washer, mounting bolt and washer – blade, washer and bolt –
blade mounting,

Husqvarna Lawn Mowers - Blade Care

GENUINE HUSQVARNA BLADE BOLT AND LOCK WASHER 532 17 43-65, 532 19 30-03, 539 10 75-22

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You may return most new items, if incorrectly supplied by All Mower Spares, within 7 days of invoice date, for a full refund, including your return freight costs. However there will be no refunds on electrical components that have been fitted or tested or incorrectly ordered without authorisation. We are happy to do exchange parts for incorrectly ordered parts. If you need to make a return, please email All Mower Spares for a Return Authorisation Number. Your refund or credit will be processed upon receipt of the returned part, providing the part is still in saleable condition.

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Oversized Items, Bulky Goods ^
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Dangerous Goods
We reserve the right to charge additional fee's or refund any order for orders that have dangerous goods attached. We will offer a refund on the entire order, advise the extra charges that may apply or refund for the freight if orders are over $150.00. The order will then be sent freight free via road only. Dangerous Goods include Aerosol cans, Batteries, Oils & some Lubricants.

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When free freight applies on orders over $150 it will not be Express Posted due to the nature of the offer we provide and will be dispatched with the freight carrier of All Mower Spares choice depending on your area. Almost every parcel local to Sydney will usually be dispatched via Toll. It will generally be with in 2-3 days (depending on weight and size of the order). Sometimes overnight for major cities including Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Adelaide, Perth, Darwin, Hobart & Canberra. 3-7 days for most other areas.
Please CLICK HERE to see if you're eligible
 for the TOLL local shipping charge. (SYD1 & SYD2 Zones)

We will not refund any parcel that does not arrive when expected unless they are express post or registered.

All Freight options on check-out are calculated from the time of dispatch not the time of order.


Blade mower bolt lawn husqvarna

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Vijaya, clutching the ledge in the wall with her hands, pulled herself up and climbed into a narrow crevice.

Husqvarna Lawn Mowers - Blade Care

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